The Lemelson Center for the Study of Invention and Innovation

The Colors of Invention

How to Dye Fibers Naturally
Supplement to Hands-on Dyeing Activity Guide

Black Walnut

Safety & Preparation Tips

Cover the work surface, floor, and area under the drying line with plastic. Dye will permanently stain anything with which it comes in contact.

• Use rubber gloves, an apron, and protective eyewear when dyeing.

• Do not use artificial fibers like polyester. Use natural fibers like cotton, linen, wool, or silk. Always prewash fabric before dyeing.

• Use white or light-colored fabric.

• When disposing of cold-water dyes, follow the directions on the package. For a natural dye solution with nontoxic chemical mordants, dilute the solution with water, then pour it down the drain.

• Remember to wash the dyed fabric separately from other clothes, since the color will run.

• To dye one pound of fiber, use four gallons of water per pound of dyestuff.

• Dye always lightens when dry.

• Be sure to dry fabric in the shade.

• Color is best obtained from plants gathered at peak bloom.

• To lighten or darken colors, decrease or increase the quantity of dyestuff. Also, experiment with the amount of time the fabric is left in the dye solution.

• Gently squeeze out excess moisture from fabric before hanging it to dry. Never wring fabric, or the dye will streak.

• Some plants are protected or endangered; others are caustic or poisonous. Make sure you know what you're picking. Pick no more than 1/3 of a large plant or patch.

General Equipment

• plastic to protect workspace
  
• rubber gloves, apron, protective eyewear, old clothes
  
• drying line (outside or with plastic underneath)
  
• colander
  
• cheesecloth
  
• number of plastic bowls or buckets for dyeing
  or clear water rinse baths
  
• wooden spoon, kitchen tongs, or bamboo sticks
  
• candy thermometer
  
• large enameled pot(s)
  
• liquid fabric softener
  
• liquid dish soap
  

Glossary

dyestuff: a coloring substance derived from vegetables, animals, or chemicals, used to color fabrics.

dye pot: the water and dye mixture in which fabrics are placed for dyeing.

mordant: a compound that enables dyes to attach better to the cloth fibers. Different mordants produce different shades when used with the same dyes.

Black Walnut

Black walnuts, native to the central eastern forests of North America, are one of the easiest natural dye plants to work with. The nuts tend to fall from the trees in September and October. The black walnut recipe with no mordant will produce light brown; an alum mordant will produce golden brown. Alum is available in the spice section at the grocery store.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod is one of the favorite plants of natural dyers. The plant grows up to six feet tall with leaves two to five inches long, and clusters of small, bright yellow flowers on top. Goldenrod is plentiful in most parts of the country from late August until the first hard frost. Best colors will be obtained from plants that are in full flower. Collect goldenrod by cutting just below the flower head (watch for bees). Goldenrod, water, and alum produce a golden yellow dye. Replace the alum with iron for a dark olive-green dye.

Chicory

During the summer months you can find chicory growing alongside city streets and country lanes. Forage for chicory early in the day because the blue flowers close up and become almost invisible once the weather gets hot. Chicory, iron, and water produce forest-green dye.

You can create different shades of green by adding peppermint to your dye pot.

Fiber/Fabric Preparation

Wool

(Prepared yarn can be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for several days.)

1. Wind yarn into a series of 12" loops (a skein).
   
2. To prevent tangling, use four separate 3" pieces to loosely tie the skein together (dye must be able to get under the ties).
   
3. Fill a container with enough cool water to cover your wool.
   
4. Add a few tablespoons of dish detergent.
   
5. Soak for a few hours or leave overnight.
   
6. Rinse thoroughly (gently squeeze out excess water).
   
7. Greasy wool will not dye evenly.
   
8. If you are not planning to dye the yarn immediately, store it in a covered container in refrigerator.
   
9. Allow yarn to warm to room temperature before dyeing.
   

Cotton
Always wash cotton fabric before dyeing.
Dye while fabric is still wet (placing dry fabric in the dye may cause uneven dyeing).

General Dyeing Directions for Black Walnut, Goldenrod, and Chicory

This dye can be stored in a cool place for up to several months and reused.

Web Page Resources

"Making Dyes Naturally" The Smithsonian Institution's National Museum of American Art Web page features a site that follows a dye project undertaken by a sixth-grade class.

Edmonton Weavers' Guild A group of traditional dyers and weavers in Alberta, Canada, meets during the winter months and maintains this web site. Check out their page to learn about dyeing with Kool-ade and Jello.

The Woad Page Learn more about the woad plant that was an indigo alternative for the early Britons.

Stamford Manufacturing Company Visit the Stamford (CT) Historical Society's Web page and learn about an American 19th-century dyestuff manufacturer.

Kathryn of the Hill's Dye Book This Web page features a number of recipes and offers good "how to" information.

Allegro Natural Dyes, LLC Visit this innovative natural dyeing company's Web page to learn more about its commitment to the environment in producing natural dyestuffs.

Bibliography

Rita J. Adrosko, Natural Dyes in the United States. (Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1968).

Anne Bliss, North American Dye Plants. (Loveland, CO: Interweave Press, 1993).

Franco Brunello, The Art of Dyeing in the History of Mankind. (Vicenza: Neri Pozza Editore, 1973).

Jenny Dean, The Craft of Natural Dyeing: Glowing Colours from the Plant World. (Kent: Search Press Ltd., 1994).

Arianne Dewey, Naming Colors. (New York: HarperCollins Children's Books, 1995).

Dianne N. Epp, The Chemistry of Vat Dyes. (Middletown, OH: Terrific Science Press, 1995).

J.N. Liles, The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing: Traditional Recipes for Modern Use. (Knoxville, TN: The University of Tennessee Press, 1990).

Anthony S. Travis, The Rainbow Makers: The Origins of the Synthetic Dyestuffs Industry in Western Europe. (Bethlehem: Lehigh University Press and London: Associated University Presses, 1993).

________________. From Turkey Red to Tyrian Purple: Textile Colours for the Industrial Revolution. (Jerusalem: The Jewish National and University Library, 1993).

Acknowledgments
Authors: Allison M. Cooley and Heather Paisley-Jones
Designer: Allison M. Cooley

Plant Illustrations from North American Dye Plants by Anne Bliss. ©1993 by Anne Bliss. Reprinted by arrangements with Interweave Press, Inc.